Being Stuck Doesn't Have to Suck — Mar-Jun 2026
Forty miles out from Lyttelton Harbor the engine died. Mike was on watch, I was below in aft cabin and heard slight clunking sound. We turned off the engine as a precaution. No smoke, no fireworks, just a different sound -- rougher than usual -- and it was done. Pampering her and coaxing her along meant that we were tuned in and also aware that we were on borrowed time.
It was late afternoon, we were hours away from the Marina with the realization that we needed to anchor under sail with approaching night. We've not done that before and I'm looking at AIS seeing a ship exiting the harbor... my stomach twists with anxiety. Mike and I ran various scenarios for getting in and getting settled across the harbor from Te Ana Marina. At this point the sea state was a bit rough for putting the dinghy into the water as a tugboat back up. We decided that I would stay at the helm for anchoring and if we needed a Hail Mary from the engine, he would be down there ready to prevent a runaway diesel by clamping rags over the air intake.
My anxiety continued spinning up and then the dolphins approached Calla Lily. Minutes after we set sails, still miles off the harbor, a pod of dolphins was gathering toward the bow and arcing gently through the water alongside. They looked different than other dolphins we've seen. Their dorsal fin was black and round! Round, some say, like a Mickey Mouse ear. They were small overall, half the size of their cousins. Hector's dolphins are endemic to Banks Peninsula area, you won't see them elsewhere. We went to the bow and delighted in the sight of little water puppies dipping and braiding in beautiful water. All stress dispelled in the welcome distraction -- in the glorious, gentle and comforting welcome.
The cruise ship seen on AIS neared the headlands and stopped to swap pilot captain back to their own. I settled in to the all clear in the channel and the winds shifted perfectly as they increased. Sailing on to anchor was going to be the perfect solution. Te Ana Marina manager, Matt, advised us that he would let us know next day when he could get away to tow us into a slip. A day later, Matt and Jody came out in their tender and towed us in.
The fact that she chugged her diesel-last so near Lyttelton Harbor translates thus: JELLY SIDE UP!!
- an english speaking country
- a working port harbor so marine engine people and parts are nearby
- expecting to meet guests at this juncture in our South Island cruising
- Yacht Marina with slips available (and Matt, a resourceful Manager)
- reliable public transportation a short walk from the marina
- CHC is flush with most everything we will need or want
We truly love Lyttelton; we got to know it well. It's an artist enclave with an industrial edge imparted by the busy ports. The town hanging on hillsides seems to have it's own weather. Perhaps more influenced by Banks Peninsula to the southeast than Christchurch, through the tunnel. It is often foggy and shaded, the winter sun is low behind the ridge toward Christchurch. I am so grateful for the hills straight up from waters' edge ranging east to the headlands. The network of rigorous trails became our decompression zone of exertion when we (esp me) needed to discharge energy of frustration. NB We've hiked a lot!
What's the problem? We had fab guests and new friends (Miles and Eva), obviously we've enjoyed ourselves! Nothing takes away from this truth. And also, two things can be true at the same time. We are stuck, subject to other's schedules beyond our control, and we are making the best of it. Mike climbs hills riding his Brompton, we explore Christchurch districts, markets, museums and galleries (Christchurch Art Gallery x 5!!). Shelby goes to the dentist, both of us get new prescription glasses. She'll be right!
We finally get eyes on the new engine. Brian, Mainland Marine owner and expert diesel tech, was flat-out well before we show up unannounced and very needy. Hurry up and wait for Brian to get room on his schedule to coordinate the crane and our tow to an accessible wharf. Got it!! Yeah,nah. Our tow pilot, Alex, is tethered to our bow, I'm ready to throw off lines. He sees the HUGE fishing boat is backing out of dry dock with the help of 2 full size tugs. NO GO -- we have to reschedule because of backwash from the tugs. Calla would be sent spinning, so instead we sit and wait for another convergence in time of tech/tow/crane/wharf.
This kind of parry, plans versus reality, is driving me nuts. Slowly I've recognized we are not in America anymore. You laugh! But it's crazy how seductive being in a westernized, anglicized mostly consumer-driven culture we find ourselves and yet... We are so clearly, solidly STILL in Polynesia. Island Time rules the land. Family before business. It will all work out. Be Happy.
We are now into the week BEYOND where Mike had unofficially proclaimed that Brian's work would be complete. "Only two hours of work left", he said. What's proven to be frustrating is that we cannot get those couple hours contiguous and uninterrupted. And Brian IS the expert! He is the reason EVERYone needs him. And yet, I just want his world to stop:: have Brian jump off into MY world and stay for as long as we need him to complete the task. But what are we actually asking him to do? The idea, "just two hours" for the task of connecting old to new is not realistic. New to New is easy peasy. Old to old is also staightforward -- if you are able to source parts (well aware from our work on vintage scooters and vintage diesel mercs) The faff-factor explodes when you tie new into old/existing parts! It becomes apparent that those "just two hours"... becomes two days... becomes another two weeks...another two months.
Dare we celebrate? Our last night of work on the engine Brian said "start her up". She turned over and quietly pattered in even tones. Calla is still tied to the dock with two spring lines plus bow and stern secured. Brian said "put her in forward" and ...she leapt into reverse! I was a cat on the ceiling fearing that the cleats would rip out of the concrete dock but not to worry. She remained secure. Fortunately it was a laughable moment for all, and more importantly, an easy fix. But what a surprise all the same. Just seemed consistent with the eye-popping roll of this project.
Sea Trial finally happened on the re-schedule...Saturday before we were planning to depart, work and weather permitting. We got the win!! Calla Lily backed out of the slip under her own power and we put her through her paces in the wind and wave tossed harbor. At 3000 rpm against the wind she cleared 6.5 knots: Whoa Lily!! The spin up of the turbo charger is a new sound to us but the prop is correct pitch and the throttle moves from idle to forward or reverse smoothly. We maxed our revs at 3500rpm and she was flying -- we credit superior speed to a clean hull as well ;-)
We made a fast overnight run up the east coast and across Cook Straight on our way north. Wellington was a welcoming calm harbor after the four hour bull-ride motion of Cook Straight. We are thrilled to be anchoring again!
